Mooooooooooooooo

Cows, the king of beasts, friendly and huge, providers of Milkshakes and Claps. Love em me, and there's tons of the crazy critters strolling about the ancient city of Varanasi. Whether they be clowning about in the water, or supping chai in the back alleys, they are ubiquitus and full of fun bags. Chuffed to bits I am. btw, So I am experimenting with color over the last few blogs. Good idea? Answers on a poste card.

Varanasi's Ghats

The life and soul of Varanasi are its ghats, the steps down to the river, especially during the hot weather where small respite can be caught from the heat with the breezes wafting across the Ganga. Best at dawn or dusk, all facets of life go on here, making for fascinating wandering. At Dawn people perform the abolutions in the river, at the same time making Pooja. Varanasi is way Holy for these Hindu types, so washing here is to be clensed to the spirit, despite the filth. At dawn people practice Yoga, drink chai, fish, do their laundry and a hundred other things best done in the soft morning light. Evening time brings more pooja and, being India cricket matches which go on despite the goats, cows, beggers and other obstuctions. Ghats.

Bhang Lassi

Had a couple of these Milk based Crazys since back in Varanasi. They do rather knock you out, and prod the paranoia particles (hot sweaty cafes not the best) in a simplistic way but generally interesting. Whilst stoned on one we went past a blaring hindu wedding, which was rather trippy. To be done after Dinner. Maybe tonights Dinner, but then will I be able to rise for Dawn. Or will I still be awake?

Colonialism

Often produces some nice architecture.
Me outside Victoria Terminus, Bombay. At its Height, during the times of dour faced Queen Vic, the British Empire created some marvelous edifices for its Colonial stampers. Not that Brits know or care much these days due to indeference and lack of education regarding their colonising past, but it happened, deal with it, know it and be impressed by the marvelous things that were created I say.

Varanasi

We made it back here, completed one circle of our life. HURRAH. Circle diameter; 6 years. Circumferance unknown. Huge perhaps. Varanasi is hot like a hot potato in a hot house. All things happening here, yes. Cows, Monkeys, River, Pooja, Bhang Lassi, Winding Alleys, Fire, Smells, Bells, Blaring horns and music, Water Shimmering, CHANTING CHANTING, nice buscuits, Thali 12Rps, Rickshaw 5 Rps, Chai 2Rps. Baba Baba. Boat ride Baba? Asi Ghat, as living in the Superbs is Better, you get some air you see. Electricity in Short Supply baba. Same Hotel as before, TEMPLE ON THE GANGIS, but not the same room, as habitation next door has more space. Price UP 5oRps. Pictures ; me at Pooja, me with drying Dung. All Well. Aiwa.
Shanti Amigos.

Leaving Yemen

Got back to Sana'a this evening and we will be leaving the country tomorrow evening, our flight to Mumbai leaves at 10pm. We will spend this evening munching Khat with some Japanese friends who've turned up from Ethiopia. Tomorrow will be spent tying up any loose ends then away we go. We've had an amzing time in Yemen, its people and its places make it a wonderful place to travel. If we weren't leaving to go to India I think we'd be pretty depressed now, but with all that looms in the Sub-continenet, the emotion is definately Excitment. What will it be like to return there after six years? Will being there be a continuation of the current trip, or will it feel like something else. When I first went there I was a travel novice, Aint no expert now but I've seen a few places so its gonna be fascinating to see how India compares, feels etc. Onwards!

Back in Ibb

Unable to find a satisfactory room in Sana'a we decided to come back to Ibb for our last few days in Yemen, and stay in the best value hotel in the country. This time we took the room with a Kitchen, basically a rather nice appartment for a mere $10 per day. We've been cooking lots of nice pasta and relaxing like hell, we didnt go outside untill sunset today! Sometimes Travel is adventure and discovery, but other times you just have to chill. Its also one of the joys of travel to return to places you were before, be greeted and feel at home. Unfortunately weve only got 4 days here before we have to go back to Sana'a in time for our flight. Fortunely Our flight is to India, and all the stuff that awaits us there. Lucky us.

Khat

I've mentioned it before but its worth coming back to the Khat. Never have I seen a society so taken with a drug other than alcohol. Tis a national institution, past-time and entertainment all rolled up in one leafy bundle. Every town has its khat souk, many more in bigger towns (there are 3 within 2 mins walking of our hotel here in Sana'a, and thats markets, not shops) After Dinner the nation settles down to a good chew and the country is strewn with discarded leaves and storks. Its a nice hit if you have some good stuff, gives you a buzz, zest for chat, adventure and a fir burst of energy. Downside for me is how stuffing hundreds of leaves in your mouth for a prolongued time (for you have to store the pulp in your cheek hamster like to get the best feeling) takes a toll on the mouth, and the next day leaves you real lathergic unless you chew more! For the Yemenis the main downside is how they speend so much of their already meagre income on it. Pictures show me chewing with it other happy partakers, and a khat party under a trailor.

Kids everywhere

Yemen is an expaning nation of souls to be sure. The population is increasing at 3.5% and almost half the population is under 15. When talking with locals we are frequently introduced to sibling groups in double figures. This baby boom is most noticable when you head into small villges where more than likely you will be greated by a swarm of wee ragged ass tots. At first nervous and shy, they open up once they get use to you being around, and they make for some good snaps....

Toyota Lancruisers

If you are gonna get ahead in Yemen you have to have a Landcruiser, the vehicle of choice for the mountain mobile Arab. If you are minted you get one of the latest models like the one on the left here, owned by some firendly chaps we met outsie Ibb who earned the big bucks needed working in NYC. Most comfortble hitch of our travels so far, even though we drove up a mountain! Older models also abound, we had a less spiffy one for our Shahara tour. For the ultimate in rugged theres the Pick-up version, favored by police types who have big old guns mounted in the back. Its abscent in the one on the right though, only me clambering about high on khat.....

Gift of the Gab

Today is a happy day! Due to my silky smooth patter I managed to talk the Indian embassy into giving us 6 month visas. I suprise myself sometimes with my ability to charm folk and lie outrageously in one winning package. So now we have a full run at India lined up which we are obsiously rather excited about. Fingers crossed now that when we go back to the embassy later this afternoon the agreement still stands!

Aden Sunsets

As I mentioned we had some fun on the beach in Aden, and saw a glorious sunset. Pretty now isnt it?

Another Blog

Recently someone recomended another Blog site which was suposed to be good for travelling as it had a map facility on it. I checked it out and it looked good so I made a blog. However as I got into it, it became apparent that it was dificult to place yourself on the map with any acuracy if you were not in a major city, especially in the middle east. I attempted to do so at first but closer inspection shows me way off, the problem being you can't zoom in when you place, only afterwards when you view. So what I finished with was a rather simple afair, but well, given I've done it I'll link it here. It may well be a good site in other regards, but I'm too far into it here to go changing now. Shame it aint such a good map, If it was a google world type map and you could place yourself exactly it would be excelent. If anyone knows of anything better, I'd be happy to find out!http://www.travelpod.com/traveler-profile/berusplants/tpod.html

Aden

Is hot, sweaty and the hotels are Expensive (we're paying $13 for our room, outrageous) However the food, esp. Fish is very good, being by the sea, and the sea itself is mighty pretty. We went for a swim yesterday in the beautiful warm waters, amusing ourselves watching the Yemeni women paddling in full Abaya (full black tent type outfit with a slit for the eyes)
We will return to Sana'a on Monday, in a proper full size coach. Not so amazing you might think but after many journeys in Peugeot 504 estates (capacity 10) you'd be excited too, trust me. Once back in Sana'a I can up load some of our recent pictures too, which I'm sure you're dying to see!